Currently, there is some confusion surrounding custom
clothing due to the
modern “bespoke” trend. This post is meant to set the
record straight on loosely used terms in “custom”. The terms “ready to wear” or
“off the rack” refer to suits that are pre-made by manufacturers and are sold
as is and altered by a tailor or, if you are very trusting, your local dry
cleaner. This is also a good time to highlight the confusion about the word
“tailored”. A “ready to wear” suit, sport jacket, or pant is tailored by a tailor
or seamstress to fit your body. All suits require some form of tailoring or
alterations. The term “tailored” is often misused to describe truly custom or a
made to measure program. Tailoring is a process. A suit that has been tailored
has simply been altered, it is not custom made.
“Made to measure” refers to a garment that is made in
accordance to a manufacturers’ template for your specific sizes in suit jacket
and waist size. Additionally, made to measure goods often allow the purchaser
to choose from available options for things such as lapel style and coat liner.
Made to measure has a template or a style that the manufacturer is already
producing. The advantage is the buyer can get a suit jacket and pant up front
closer to their size and make some style selections.
“Custom” or “bespoke” are terms that are used loosely
to mean all of the above. However, “custom” means that an individual is taking
several measurements including chest, suit waist, hip, inseam, outseam, knee,
bottom, etc. in order to build a template for the buyers body. Custom clothing
typically starts by picking the swatch or fabric from a popular mill like
Dormeuil, Zegna, or Loro Piana. Then extensive measurements are taken and style
options are reviewed. Style options include everything from lapel type, number
of buttons, liner, piping, pic stitching, personal labeling, functional button
holes, cell phone pocket, watch pocket in the pant, etc.
There are different
types of custom clothing as well. The most basic form of custom involves
picking a swatch, picking options, taking measurements and having that
information sent to a mill for the suit to be made. However, some very (and I
emphasize VERY) talented tailors (usually master tailors) are skilled enough to
take a buyer through the entire process. This means the tailor will make the
suit themselves in their work shop and will often due several fittings as they
construct the garment. This process in the United States will often run
upwards of $2500 and can take even longer than shipping goods to a mill to be
made. I hope this clears up some of the confusion. However, if it creates more
or if you have a question please feel free to direct it to matt@lesrichards.com
Stay classy.
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